AHA Fruit Acids Active Ingredient

A few ideas

Use as an ingredient in the following mixtures:

• Radiance-boosting creams and masks

• Age-defying treatments

• Smoothing, brightening or clarifying skin care products

• Exfoliating products with a peeling effect

• Purifying cleansing gel for skin with blemishes

• Creams and lotions for oily skin

• Shine shampoo

Properties

In skincare, the cosmetic active ingredient AHA - fruit acids is recognised for the following properties:

• Keratolytic: peeling effect

• Stimulates cell renewal

• Stimulates the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (compounds that form the skin's support matrix, including collagen): youthful effect, restores elasticity to the skin

• Helps to reduce the depth of wrinkles

• Helps reduce skin spots and blemishes: evens skin tone

• Improves skin hydration*.

• Purifies the skin (eliminates excess sebum and dead cells)

• Makes hair shiny

Indications

• Dull skin, blotchy complexion

• Fine lines and wrinkles

• Skin spots, uneven skin tone

• Blemished skin, oily skin

• Dull hair

Combinations

Explore new combinations to refine your creation.

• Synergies: if your skin is sensitive, add a soothing active ingredient, such as bisabolol or allantoin, to your AHA preparations.

• Incompatibilities with certain active ingredients: we advise against combining AHAs with alkalinising active ingredients (vitamin C, bamboo sap, lithothamnion). Fruit acid AHAs are acidic active ingredients and for optimum effectiveness, the pH of the formulas should be between 4 and 5.5.

• Incompatibility with clays: since fruit acid AHAs are an acidic active ingredient and require a slightly acidic pH to be effective, we do not recommend incorporating them into your clay masks, which are slightly alkaline due to the nature of the clays.

• Incompatibility with peel-off masks: this acidic active ingredient is not suitable for use in peel-off masks (it does not work in an acidic environment).

Precautions

Precautions and allergens

Precautions for use

Allergens

Allergen-free

Add it to a neutral AZ base

AHAs can be incorporated into a ready-made AZ Neutral Base to make:

• An emulsion: with Organic Neutral Plant Milk, Organic Neutral Age-Defying and Organic Moisturising Creams, Organic Neutral Hair Mask Base,

• A water-based gel: with organic aloe vera Gel,

• A foaming product: with organic Neutral Cleansing Base, organic Neutral Cleansing Cream and organic Neutral Shampoo Base.

Integrate the AHAs into one of the AZ neutral bases (listed above) to make an emulsion, a water-based gel or a foaming product

Note

Any addition of active ingredients to a ready-to-use cosmetic product can change its appearance (particularly its viscosity) and stability. AHAs in particular are an acidic active ingredient that can destabilise formulas, especially if added in high doses. We therefore advise you to limit yourself to a low dosage (1-3%) and to start by trying on a small quantity of product.

Make a recipe from A to Z

AHAs can be incorporated as an active ingredient in all your formulas containing water: creams, milks, lotions, cleansing gels, shampoos, etc.

Incorporate AHAs into all your water-containing formulas

Preparation

Good news! This active ingredient is eligible for our MIX - APPLY Skincare Routine.

3 pumps* of one of our neutral bases (Neutral Youth Cream, Neutral Moisturising Cream, Concentrated Hyaluronic Acid Serum) to MIX in the palm of your hand with the 0.05 ml Nicotinamide spoon are all you need to create an express personalised treatment. You're all set! Now all you have to do is APPLY it to your face!

*If you bought the age defying or moisturising cream in a 50ml jar, replace the 3 pumps with 1 0.5ml spoon.

Our 3 neutral bases for using your asset

Organic moisturising neutral cream

This certified organic face and body cream enriched with aloe vera and peppermint hydrosol provides your skin with intense, long-lasting hydration for up to 8 hours after application. It is ideal for combination to oily skin .

Neutral Moisturising Cream

Organic Neutral Age Defying Cream

Enriched with rose hip carrier oil and hyaluronic acid, this certified organic neutral face and body cream has anti-ageing, moisturising and plumping properties to look after normal to dry mature skin .

Youth-Enhancing Cream

Hyaluronic Acid Serum Concentrate

This hyaluronic acid serum is known for smoothing, moisturising and plumping the skin. Suitable for all skin types, it fills in wrinkles, moisturises and improves the elasticity of the skin.

Hyaluronic Acid 3.5% Serum

Quality

100% plant-based (bilberry, sugar cane, maple, orange, lemon)

Production process

A blend of water-based fruit and plant extracts

Function

"Radiant complexion" active ingredient, smoothing and regenerating

Benefits and properties

• Anti-ageing

• Healthy glow

• Smoothing

INCI name

Aqua (water: 45-55%) & Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract (bilberry extract: 27-30%) and Saccharum officinarum extract (sugar cane extract: 11-13%) and Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract (orange extract: 3-5%) and Citrus limon fruit extract (lemon extract: 3-5%) & Acer saccharum extract (maple extract: 1-2%).

Presentation

Colourless to light yellow liquid, packaged in an amber glass bottle with codigout.

Fruit acid content

45 to 55%, including:

• Lactic acid: 28 to 32

• Glycolic acid: 12 to 17

• Citric acid: 2 to 6

• Malic acid: up to 1

• Tartaric acid: up to 1

Learn more

Storage

Store at room temperature, away from moisture and light. Close the bottle tightly after use.

Precautions

• Keep out of reach of children. Do not swallow, avoid contact with eyes.

• Do not use undiluted on the skin. Follow the recommended dosage.

• Some skins are sensitive to fruit acids; always carry out a sensitisation test in the crook of your elbow for each of your product mixes 48 hours before use.

• Avoid contact with the eyes.

• Avoid exposure to the sun.

• Use daily sun protection and avoid exposure to the sun for up to a week after the last application.

Supplier documents

Chemical peeling--evaluation of glycolic acid in varying concentrations and time intervals

Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2001 Jan-Feb; 67(1): 28-9, Gupta RR, Mahajan BB, Garg G.

Chemical peeling--glycolic acid versus trichloroacetic acid in melasma

Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2001 Mar-Apr; 67(2): 82-4, Kalla G, Garg A, Kachhawa D.

The effect of glycolic acid on cultured human skin fibroblasts: cell proliferative effect and increased collagen synthesis

J Dermatol. 1998 Feb ; 25(2) : 85-9. Kim SJ, Won YH.

Increased in vivo collagen synthesis and in vitro cell proliferative effect of glycolic acid

Dermatol Surg. 1998 Oct ; 24(10 ): 1054-8, Kim SJ, Park JH, Kim DH, Won YH, Maibach HI.

Alpha-hydroxyacid chemical peeling agents: case studies and rationale for safe and effective use.

Briden ME. Cutis, 2004 Feb; 73(2 Suppl): 18-24.

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